Five of my favourite things from my first trip to Tuscany

(…aside from meeting my partner’s family of course!!)

I recently came back from my first trip to Tuscany. The eight days I spent there were jam packed with sightseeing and family time, and if I’m honest, it was such a whirlwind I think I’m still processing it! I’ll catch sight of one of my polaroid’s, skip past an Instagram photo or put on my facemask that somehow still smells of Italy (yes, I have washed it!) and I instantly get the warm and fuzzies. I’m already looking forward to going back. With so much happening it was difficult to know quite what to write about, but I’ve settled on five of my favourite things from this first trip.

Michelangelo’s David and Prisoners

Michelangelo’s David must be one of the most famous statues in the world. It seems to be one of those places that’s high on a tourist’s tick list even if the renaissance isn’t their jam. When you walk into the Accademia gallery, Michelangelo’s David stands at the end of the hall almost dominating the space. It’s easy to rush straight over to him, ignoring everything else in the room to marvel. It is really worth holding back a moment to admire Michelangelo’s Prisoners on the way though. The Prisoners are unfinished and have been named ‘The Bearded Slave’, ‘The Atlas’, ‘The Young Slave’ and ‘The Awakening Slave’ by scholars. As they’re not finished the Slaves or Prisoners appear to be trapped in the marble, trying to fight there way into existence. They are incredibly evocative and like all ‘good art’ they inspire conversation. Rather than inspiring conversation David himself is so astonishing he left me speechless. I’m often disappointed by what I see as overly popularised attractions, but David in no way disappointed. Even down to the veins in his hands he is just perfect…which is somewhat surprising considering Michelangelo created him from discarded marble. One man’s trash really is another man’s treasure!

Rapolano terme

I had a sneaky suspicion we’d be going somewhere ‘spa-like’ when we were in Italy as I’d been told about the hot spring area of Tuscany and my partner told me to bring my swimsuit with me! What I didn’t expect was two nights in a lovely spa hotel, with two treatments and breakfast and dinner included. We stayed at the 2 Mari hotel (two seas hotel) in Rapolano Terme where we had a hammam treatment and a 30-minute massage with honey infused oils. We also had two sessions in the saltwater pool and spent ample time amongst the hot tubs and saunas. I also took one quick dip in the frigidarium (cold water pool) too, but once was enough! When I say we had two sessions in the saltwater pool, I don’t just mean we floated about in saltwater for a while…2 Mari have three hydrojet massage stations within the pool that pummel you for about ten minutes each. Each station targets different areas and each station feels SO good in it’s own unique way. I cannot fully express how relaxed I was after each session. It only took 30 minutes and I was practically floating out of the pool and onto my next treatment. Both the hammam and oil massage were equally pampering. I haven’t felt my muscles loosen so much for a long time. I spent many moments whilst we were there wondering if we could find a spa back in Aberdeenshire that would fill in for us before we can return.

Gunè

After Rapolano Terme I didn’t expect anymore big treats, but my partner had plans to take me to Gunè. I’d heard this name being thrown around and his family talked about it as if it was kinda special, but we’d been to lots of nice places and eaten lots of great food already, so I didn’t really think much of it! Gunè however is not a normal restaurant, it’s fancy! When we arrived and I had my first peek inside, I had this sudden sinking feeling of ‘I have severely underestimated this’, ‘I do not belong here’. But within minutes of a warm welcome those feelings were gone and I realised that Gunè was fancy but definitely not snooty. We started our meal with a series of surprise ‘welcomes’, like little amuse bouches and an elaborate bread box. Then for the starter which was romantically called ‘the departure’ I chose nigiri maki from Podolica and my partner had tongue peposo. This was followed by the ‘first discovery’ (or primo / 1^st main) which saw us both having ravioli with a Tuscan-Lucanian soul. The ravioli had bardiccio and pezzente sausage with milk foam and Casentino ham powder. That was without doubt our favourite savoury part of the meal and when I think about it or look at the picture I took of it I can genuinely still taste it. My taste buds do not want to let go of that memory! You can also have a ‘second discovery’ but I jumped straight into dessert (my partner, Mattia, went for another cocktail). As we both work on honeybees I couldn’t resist the semifreddo pudding with honey in it. I can’t find it on the Gunè website and I can’t remember what it was called or what exactly was in it but whatever its name it entered the pudding hall of fame for me! The honey flavour was so strong, but it was balanced by the creaminess of the semifreddo. There was also some sort of light cream or milk poured on top with green tea ‘crumbles’. It just all worked so well. On top of this, we also had a ‘goodbye’ or a ‘departure’ a bit like the ‘welcome’ which was a series of tiny desserts! Each one of them was outstanding in it’s own unique way. (My mouth has been watering the whole time I’ve been writing this!) I also had a different wine with each course, which I let them choose for me and Mattia had a couple of cocktails tailor made to his tastes. I have practically zero experience of restaurants like this so I have little to compare it to, but I honestly had the best time and I think it will go down as one of my favourite memories…and meals!

Vie cave and tombs

Whilst we were staying in Rapolano Terme we had a day trip to see Tomba Ildebranda This is the main attraction of a series of tombs and Etruscan roadways which form part of the parco archeologico known as ‘Città del Tufo’. What we had failed to consider however was that we were visiting in the middle of the week during ‘off-season’, so when we got there we were greeted by big gates and a bigger closed sign! Luckily for us though, there is part of the park that is non ticketed and open all the time. Tomba della Sirena (the tomb of the siren) and the San Sebastian vie cave are on the opposite side of the site. Although they aren’t part of the ticketed park this doesn’t mean that it isn’t a spectacular area. As we went at such a quiet time it also meant that we spent several hours exploring the area completely on our own, which definitely made it more atmospheric. I didn’t take a picture of the English sign for Tomba della Sirena and I’m struggling to find basic information about it online in English (I can’t speak Italian…yet) but I have enclosed a picture. What I can tell you is that there are a series of tombs, one of which (shown below) is very ornately decorated. The others are simpler, but I’m sure no less full of significance and there’s even a tomb that you can shimmy into. There are also a series of vie cave. These are pathways which were hand carved out of the soft tufa (tuff) rock. They are around 20 metres deep, about 3 metres wide and 500 metres in length. As they lead to necropoli it is thought that the Etruscans carved these pathways to allow them access to sacred sites, or perhaps the pathways were also sacred themselves. As they form a cold subzone the pathways are also full of ferns, lichens, mosses and liverworts which is super cool. It feels like you’re stepping into another world. I guess considering the Etruscans existed between the 8^th and 3^rd century BC and started building the vie cave around the 3^rd century I guess it was another world back then!

Discovering Clet

Clet Abraham is a French street artist living and working in Florence. Among other things he takes traffic signage and playfully alters them using customised stickers. It’s really fun wandering around the city spotting Clet’s work. There’s already a lot to look at and admire around the streets of Florence but the chance of spotting another Clet had me paying even more attention to my surroundings and looking in different places. The contrast between renaissance Florence and Clet’s urban street art just did something for me. If you want to find out a little more then I really liked this short article by The Guardian.

So, I’ve called these my top 5, but honestly, I could have picked so many moments from my trip. From eating schiacciata in the Santissima Annunziata, discovering medieval walled towns like Pitigliano, Certaldo and San Gimignano or gazing out over Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo. I can’t wait to go back and make more memories.